Temples of Bhutan

After a wonderful scenic flight into Paro we will clear customs and make our way out of the airport, where our guide and driver for our trip will meet us. From here we will drive to our hotel to check in and freshen up after our flight. Dinner will be our first taste of Bhutanese style food.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,280 metres.

Today we travel to Thimphu, one of the world's smallest capital cities and the only one that doesn't have a single traffic light. The journey takes around 1½ hours, with a couple of stopping points to photograph the marvelous views en route. 

The best place to get an overview of the city is from Buddha Dordenma, the 51-metre high statue of a seated Buddha, one of the tallest in the world. There is a temple built into the structure, right under where the Buddha sits, that contains over 100,000 smaller golden statues of the Buddha. As it is a very new building, the inside artwork, depicting stories from the Buddha, is shiny new and vibrant.

In the afternoon we plan to visit the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 to honour the fourth king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. It is a very popular place with locals, many of who attend daily to circumambulate the chorten in a clockwise direction, offering recitations whilst turning small hand held prayer wheels.

Overnight in Thimphu. Altitude: 2,320 metres.

Today we will have some more fabulous views over the city when we visit Changangkha Lhakhang, a temple originally built in the 12th century. It is very important place for the Bhutanese as it is where they bring their children to be blessed with long and happy lives. Parents also seek auspicious names for their children here.

We also are planning a visit to the Institute for Zorig Chusum, known more commonly as the 'painting school'. The school's mission is "to preserve the traditional arts and crafts by reviving and sustaining the old traditional arts and crafts and continually improving on it". They don't just teach painting here (thangkas) but all manner of religious handicrafts including embroidery, wood carving and statues. The skill and attention to detail is quite impressive.

Overnight in Thimphu. Altitude: 2,320 metres.

Today we will need our walking shoes as we will be hiking to either Cheri or Tango monasteries, or both if we have time. It takes around one hour of uphill walking through lovely pine forest to reach either, after a short drive north of Thimphu. Tango Goemba was built in the 15th century and is now a Buddhist studies university. Cheri Goemba dates back to the 17th century and was Bhutan's first monastery. It is a centre for meditation retreats, with some monks committed to three years, three months and three days of religious solitude.

Overnight in Thimphu. Altitude: 2,320 metres.

Today we will make the 3-hour drive to the lovely Punakha valley. Along the way we will stop at one of Bhutan's scenic high passes, the Dochula, located at 3,140 metres in altitude. There are fantastic views of the mountains from here if the weather is clear, usually between October and February. The main attraction of the Dochula is the impressive sight of 108 chortens built on a gentle hill in the middle. The construction of the chortens in 2005 was at the request of the Queen Mother to atone for the loss of life during skirmishes on the Indian border.

Once in Punakha we will visit Chime Lhakhang, more commonly known as 'the temple of the divine madman'. Built in 1499 Chime Lhakhang to honour Drukpa Kunley, the enlightened Buddhist master who wandered the countryside indulging in singing and dancing, as well as women and wine. He was known as a social critic who taunted the established order using unconventional methods. Today Chime Lhakhang is where Buddhists come to receive a blessing for the health of their children.

We will also visit the serene Wolaka nunnery, built high on a mountain with wonderful views over the Punakha valley. The nunnery has a small Nepalese style stupa set among a well tended garden.

Overnight in Wangdue Phodrang. Altitude: 1,240 metres.

This morning we will need our walking shoes for the hike up to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten. It is a fine walk through the rice paddies, with stunning views across the valley as we ascend. The 30-metre high chorten is dedicated to the fifth and current king and was completed in 2004. It was built to ward off evil spirits and to bring peace and harmony to all sentient beings. It is possible to climb to the rooftop for even more wonderful views.

Our next adventure is to visit the Punakha dzong, the second oldest in Bhutan. The original purpose of the dzongs was as fortresses to guard against invading armies. These days they serve as monasteries and in some as local government buildings. Punakha was the seat of government until the mid 1950s but it is still of great importance as it is where all of the kings are crowned. Punakha dzong is said to be the most beautiful in Bhutan and it's hard to argue with that claim, given its scenic location on the confluence of two rivers. It has a number of serene courtyards overlooked by the monks quarters and the main temple at the southern end. The traditional architecture is marvellous, with ornate painted woodwork and golden columns. Watch out for the enormous bee hives around the eaves. A short walk from here takes us to one of the longest suspension bridges in Bhutan.

Overnight in Wangdue Phodrang. Altitude: 1,240 metres.

Today we will travel to Trongsa, a small but significant town in the very centre of Bhutan. The driving time will be 5 to 6 hours but there is some spectacular scenery along the way. We will stop to take photographs and also for lunch. Trongsa is the site of one of the most interesting dzongs, sprawled along a ridge and finishing on the edge of a very steep gorge. The first section was built in 1543 but was added to in the centuries since. The result is a number of courtyards and buildings at different levels connected by several stone staircases. At the very end of the dzong are incredible views overlooking the gorge.

Uphill from the dzong is the small but interesting Ta Dzong, a museum built in a circular shape that houses a small collection of exhibits, including a replica of the raven crown used in the coronation of the kings.

Overnight in Trongsa. Altitude: 2,180 metres.

Today we will drive further east into the traditional heartland of Bumthang, made up of four valleys. Our destination is the town of Jakar, in the Chokhor valley. Jakar translates as 'white bird'. The site of the dzong here is said to have been chosen after an auspicious white bird landed in this spot in the 16th century. We can expect some excellent views of the valley when we visit the dzong this afternoon.

Overnight in Jakar. Altitude: 2,580 metres.

Today we can walk to a number of significant temples, including Jampey Lhakhang which, along with Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro, is one of the very oldest in Bhutan, both dating from the 7th century.

From here we can walk to Kurjey Lhakhang, a complex of three temples built at different times. The first temple, the Guru Lhakhang is the oldest, built in 1652. It is the holiest of the three as it contains the meditation cave where Guru Rinpoche left a body imprint in the rock. The second temple was built in 1900 by Ugen Wangchuk, who became the first king of Bhutan. The third temple was constructed in 1984 by Ashi Kesang Wangchuk, wife of the third king.

Finally, we can walk further and cross the river to reach Tamshing Lhakhang, a 16th century temple built by Pema Lingpa, the famous Treasure Discoverer. Pema Lingpa is known for having discovered many sacred relics, including some related to Padmasambhava, Guru Rinpoche.

In the afternoon we will take a short drive to the site of one of Pema Lingpa's most significant feats. In the river below Naring Drak is a pool that has been named the Burning Lake. In an effort to convince the local governor of his authenticity, Pema Lingpa is said to have dived into the pool and emerged with a burning butter lamp. It is a short walk down to the lake. Before crossing the small bridge is a shrine with many butter lamps in honour of Pema Lingpa.

Overnight in Jakar. Altitude: 2,580 metres.

This morning we will catch our flight back to Paro. If the weather is clear we should have great views of the Eastern Himalayas. The snow-capped dome of Mount Jomolhari can usually be seen as we get close to Paro.

In the afternoon we will explore the vast dzong that dominates the Paro valley. As dzongs were once used as fortresses against invading armies their strategic positions come with marvelous views for surveying the surrounding countryside. This is certainly true of the Paro dzong.

After this we will also visit Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. Like Jampey Lhakhang in Bumthang, Kyichu also dates from the 7th century. This small temple has a pretty inner courtyard and now quite faded Buddhist paintwork inside.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,280 metres.

Today we will visit the most iconic temple in all of Bhutan and one of the most photogenic in the world: Taktsang Lhakhang, the Tiger's Nest. It is a solid 2 to 3 hour uphill climb to reach the temple but there is the option of walking only for an hour instead to the cafeteria where panoramic views of the Tiger's Nest can still be seen. The best views are at the beginning of the stone steps near the final approach, where the precarious location of the temple clinging to side of the cliff can be fully appreciated. The Tiger's Nest is a complex of small temples, with a number of steep stone staircases connecting them. It was built around a cave where Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated. The Tiger's Nest refers to the legend of Guru Rinpoche having flown to this site on the back of a tigress in order to subdue a demon.

Tonight we will have a last night celebration dinner.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,280 metres.

Today our guide and driver will take us to the airport and we say goodbye to this dear little Buddhist Himalayan Kingdom.