Jomolhari Laya Trek

The hike to the amazing Tiger's Nest Monastery is one of the best in the world. As you ascend through pine and rhododendron forest you glimpse the monastery high above and the Paro Valley down below. Suddenly, after a final push upwards you are faced with the most magnificent views of the Tiger's Nest clinging to the side of a cliff. It's simply breathtaking.

At 7,314 metres in altitude, Mount Jomolhari is Bhutan's second highest mountain. Its snowy dome can be seen as you fly into Paro. We spend an extra day at the base of Mount Jomolhari, with some pretty spectacular day walks within reach of our camp.

The dzong, or fortress, at Punakha is considered the most beautiful in Bhutan and it's easy to see why: traditional architecture, ornated carved and painted woodwork, brilliant Buddhist artwork and gilded doorways. There's also the stunning location, at the confluence of two rivers. It holds a special place in the hearts of the Bhutanese as it is the site for the coronation of all of the country's highly revered kings.

At 3,700 metres in altitude Laya is the highest and one of the most remote villages in Bhutan, located a short distance from the Tibetan border. The Layaps, as the locals are known have their own language and customs and wear a distinct style of dress, most notably a small spire-shaped hat made from bamboo worn by Layap women. They are primarily yak herders but also grow crops such as turnips and barley.

Thimphu is one of the world's smallest capital cities but has seen rapid growth in the last few years. It has no traffic lights, just a white-gloved policeman to conduct traffic. Thankfully traffic jams are rare and the main centre is still small and easily negotiated. The city sits in the Thimphu Valley, fringed by forests and mountains, which means good walking trails are easy to find.

The trail to this beautiful high alpine lake is a great day hike from Mount Jomolhari base camp. As you ascend you gain superb views of Jichu Drake with its dramatically pointed peak. Jichu Drake translates as ‘angry bird’. The lake is located at 4,430 metres above sea level and is a brilliant blue colour when viewed from above.

Bhutan's remote trails offer stunning views of the Eastern Himalayan Range. As we travel further into the mountains, above the tree line, the views become more dramatic, with vast sweeping panoramas. You may find yourself standing within a 360-degree circle of peaks. It is truly awe inspiring.

The high passes in Bhutan are places where we usually pause in our journey and stop to take in the magnificent views. The Dochu La not only has great views of the mountains but is an impressive sight in itself, with 108 chortens spread over a small hill at its centre.

Paro is the gateway to Bhutan. Its wide valley makes it the most suitable location for Bhutan’s only international airport. The valley is dominated by the view of the magnificent dzong, or fortress, which is the site of one of Bhutan’s most popular festivals. 

The flight into Paro is one of the most scenic in the world, with views of the snow-capped Himalayas and a final approach through a mountainous valley. Your guide will meet you outside the main exit after you have cleared customs and from the airport you will be taken to your hotel. After a freshen up we will head out to explore the main street of Paro and the incredible dzong that overlooks the valley. Dzongs were once used as fortresses and their strategic locations usually have the best views in town. Above the dzong is the museum, where we can learn about the flora and fauna of Bhutan, as well as get a sense of how Buddhism is ever-present in this tiny kingdom. Your guide will help you if you need to exchange or withdraw money. 

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2, 250 metres.

Today we will stretch our legs and get a little taste of altitude with the hike to the wonderful Tiger's Nest monastery, located at 3,100 metres above the Paro valley. As you ascend you will see glimpses of the monastery, perched impossibly on the side of a steep cliff. It is a wonderful walk, strewn with prayer flags, with a waterful as you near the monastery. The complex itself is a series of small temples and rooms, including some built over a cave where Guru Rinpoche, Padmasambhava, is said to have meditated after he flew to Bhutan on the back of a tigress.

Tonight we will sort of all of our gear for tomorrow's trek.

Overnight in Paro. Alititude: 2,250 metres.

Our trek starts today with a 2-hour drive to Sharna Zampa, an army post where we will have our trekking permits stamped. En route we will stop at Drukyul Dzong, another beautiful fortress that has been recently restored.

Our gear will be loaded onto the horses by our horsemen, who will be with us for the whole trek. Our horses walk on the same tracks as us and, if there are other trekking groups, the paths can be quite busy. Locals also transport essentials on horses to the remote villages that we will be passing through.

A sign marks our entry into Jigme Dorji National Park, as the trail follows the river, through gorgeous forests of brown oak, conifers, juniper and a myriad of lichens. We will stop for a packed lunch along the way.

We have a relatively short distance of 10 kilometres before we reach our first night's camp.

Walking time: 2-3 hours

Overnight in Tshongshothangka. Altitude: 2,850 metres.

Today walk is a distance of 13 kms to reach our destination at Thangthangkha. The trail continues with lots of small ups and downs, with many crossings of the river and its tributaries over several bridges. Underfoot is quite rocky at times but the views of the wonderfully clear river along the trail are inspiring. A signposted fork in the road indicates the way towards Jomolhari Base Camp and, if the weather is clear, we may have our first glimpse of Mount Jomolhari.

Today's campsite has an indoor area for eating and socialising. 

Walking time: 7-8 hours

Overnight in Thangthangkha. Altitude: 3,610 metres.

This morning the trek continues upward, through the forest and still following the river.  Eventually the forest diminishes and the trail passes through open alpine meadows, where yaks are commonly seen. The vast landscapes and soaring hills are awe-inspiring. The trail passes through the village of Soe, where there is a small primary school - the building with the flagpole flying Bhutan's distinct orange and yellow national flag. Not long after the village, Jomolhari base camp is reached, our home for two nights.

Today's distance is 13 kms.

Walking time: 7-8 hours.

Overnight in Jangothang. Altitude: 4,080 metres.

Today is an acclimatisation day. You may choose to stay around camp and do some laundry or rest. There are a couple of small streams where clothes can be easily washed. There is also the choice to do a half-day hike up to Tshophu, a beautiful lake reached by an uphill climb. In clear weather, the views of Mount Jomolhari and the nearby peak of Jichu Drake are stunning. Blue sheep, marmots and yaks are commonly seen on the walk. There are also trails to explore on the flanks of Mount Jomolhari.

Walking time: 3-4 hours. 

Overnight in Jangothang. Altitude: 4,080 metres

Today's walk is 16 kms, with the first 8 kms being a long, slow trek up to the Nylila Pass, at an altitude of 4,870 metres. The track starts with some brilliant views of Jichu Drake. We are well above the tree line for almost the whole day, with vast, open landscapes dominating the landscape. After climbing over the pass, we head down into Lingshi village. The village has expanded recently, with many new houses being built. The stunning Lingshi Dzong is prominent for most of the walk into the village, perched alone high above on a hill.  From the campsite, Tshering Gang and Jichu Drake can be seen.

Walking time: 8-9 hours.

Overnight in Charithang. Altitude: 4,010 metres.

Today we head towards the lovely village of Chebisa, a distance of 10 kms. The day starts with a stop at the chorten to take photos of the brilliant views. The chorten sits just below a steep hill up to the dzong, which we could make a detour to. We also pass through the charming village of Gongyul, which is well worth a look. The scenery is more of the same broad, spectacular panoramas. We mostly walk along the ridge overlooking the river, sometimes with distant waterfalls to be seen. Finally we make our way down into the valley again, where Chebisa is located. At the very end of the village is a waterfall, which makes for a nice afternoon wander.

Walking time: 6 hours.

Overnight in Chebisa. Altitude: 3,860 metres.

The trail begins with a long climb behind Chebisa village towards signposted Blue Sheep Point, an expanse of wide alpine pastures where you will most likely spot yaks and the elusive blue sheep. As we gain height, spectacular views of Tshering Gang and Jichu Drake behind can be seen as we look back towards Chebisa. The trail soon after takes us to Gobu La, a pass reaching 4,430 metres in altitude. From the pass there are a number of ascents and descents to reach the campsite. The trail is flanked by rhododendron shrubs at first then through forest once more before descending to an open meadow. The distance today is 13 kms.

Walking time: 7-8 hours.

Overnight in Dralung. Altitude: 4,220 metres.

The trail today is just 10 kms but we have yet another high pass to cross, the Jarila La, at 4,730 metres in altitude. We will be ascending 500 metres and descending 600 metres today. From Jarila La, excellent views of Great Tiger Mountain can be seen in clear weather. Superb panoramas dominate the landscape before passing through a beautiful forest to reach the river on the valley floor. From here it's a gentle climb to our campsite.

Walking time: 7 hours.

Overnight in Tshering Yangu. Altitude: 4,140 metres

Today is our toughest day of walking, crossing the Sinche La, which at 5,010 metres is the highest point of the trek. It's a long ascent, up to 6 hours, to reach the pass, with a gain of almost 900 metres. It is rocky and often steep but beautiful nonetheless. The prayer flags adorning the pass are a welcome sight. The steep descent down the moraine takes concentration before finally coming into the forest once more. Today's distance is 16.5 kms.

Walking time: 9-10 hours.

Overnight in Limithang. Altitude: 4,270 metres

Today we follow the river once more, with beautiful forest on either side and several waterfalls glimpsed in the distance. For most of its 12.5 km length, the walking is quite straightforward and relatively easy after yesterday's big climb. The final section veers away from the river and takes us up to the lovely village of Laya. Locals here are known as Layaps and have a distinctive style of dress. There are impressive views of Great Tiger Mountain and Masangang from the village. 

Walking time: 6-7 hours.

Overnight in Laya. Altitude: 3,860 metres.

Today will be spent exploring Laya. There is a school and a medical centre here, as well as a few shops. A trail above the town leads to a high plateau where the annual Highland Festival is held. Wandering around Laya is a great way to meet the friendly locals. You may be invited in to a local house and served butter tea, if you're lucky!

Overnight in Laya. Altitude: 3,860 metres.

The final 12.5 km stretch of the trek is all downhill to begin with, on a rocky path through open forest. The trail passes through an army camp at Taktsikha and then follows the river until Tongsho. A shop here marks the end of the walk and the possibility of a hot cup of tea! Our four wheel drive vehicles will collect us here for the trip to Gasa. The narrow winding roads make for slow progress but the incredible scenery along the way makes for a great drive. After 1½-2 hours of descent we reach Gasa, with its impressive dzong. Tonight we have the unique pleasure of staying in a local homestay. Our accommodation will be simple but clean and luxurious after eleven nights of camping. 

Walking time: 5-6 hours.

Overnight in Gasa. Altitude: 2,240 metres.

At Gasa we will meet our driver and travel to Punakha, where we can check into our hotel and have our first hot shower in almost two weeks! After lunch there are a few walks we can do, as well as taking in the Punakha dzong, considered the most beautiful in Bhutan.

Overnight in Punakha. Altitude: 1,310 metres.

Today we will head to Thimphu, one of the world's smallest capital cities, via Dochula, a high pass at 3,150 metres. The Dochula is a great stopping point for admiring the mountain views, weather permitting, and also wandering among the 108 chortens on a gentle hill nearby.

Once in Thimphu we can do a number of walks or some sightseeing, with maybe some souvenir shopping as well.

Overnight in Thimphu. Altitude: 2,350 metres.

Today we will undertake an easy 2-hour walk above Thimphu, from Buddha Point, the 51.5 metre high golden seated statue of the Buddha that overlooks the valley. The walk passes through lovely pine forest, with views of the city at various intervals. In the afternoon we will drive to Paro for some final sightseeing and a celebration dinner.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,250 metres.

Today our guide and driver will take us to the airport for the flight home or onward to other destinations. The flight from Paro is another chance to see the incredible Himalayas from the air.