Gangkhar Puensum Trek

The flight into Bhutan is one of the most scenic in the world, as it descends into the Himalayas and down through the valley before reaching Paro, with great views of the mountains if the weather is clear. After clearing customs we will be met by our guide and driver outside the main exit doors of the airport. From here we will check into our hotel and then head out for a stroll around the streets of downtown Paro.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,280 metres.

Today we drive to Wangdue Phodrang, via the Dochula, a scenic high pass that is made even more stunning by the 108 chortens on a gentle hill. It's a great place to stop and wander among the chortens. In clear weather there are wonderful views of the Himalayas.

Down the road from the Dochula is the Lungchu Tsey Pilgrimage track, leading up to a small monastery above the valley, at 3,569 metres in altitude. It's a beautiful 3 to 4-hour walk up through the daphne and rhododendrons that are strewn with prayer flags.

After lunch we will visit the magnificent Punakha dzong, considered the most beautiful in Bhutan. It is stunningy located at the confluence of two large rivers and is reached by crossing a wooden bridge from which large trout can be seen in the river below. The dzong was originally built in 1637 and then rebuilt several times after being damaged by floods and fires. It is the second oldest dzong (behind Simtoka Dzong) and the second biggest (behind Trongsa) in Bhutan and was the seat of government until the 1950s. It has many temples and courtyards to explore. There is great beauty in the carved and elaborately painted architecture and Buddhist artwork of the inner courtyards.

Driving time: 3 hours

Overnight Wangdue Phodrang. Altitude: 1,240 metres.

Today we take on the strenuous uphill trail to Giligang via the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten. It starts with a lovely walk through the rice paddies to reach this relatively new temple, built in 2004. The panoramic views over the Punakha valley from the top of the chorten are quite spectacular. After this we continue further uphill to reach the small privately owned 300-year-old monastery at Giligang. From here it's all downhill to reach the bridge at Punakha dzong. Walking time is 5 hours.

After this we drive to Trongsa in the very centre of Bhutan.

Driving time: 4½ hours.

Overnight in Trongsa. Altitude: 2,180 metres.

This morning we will visit the 16th century Trongsa dzong, situated spectacularly on a ridge right down to the sheer edge of a gorge, overlooking the Mangde Chhu river. Trongsa dzong is one of Bhutan's most interesting as it has been added on to over the years and now consists of a number of temples and courtyards at different levels connected by a series of stone steps. Great views can be had from the end of the dzong.

A 2½-hour drive will take us further east to Bumthang. After checking into our hotel we will sort out our gear for the start of our trek tomorrow. There is good walking to be had around the village of Jakar, including to one of Bhutan's oldest temples, Jampey Lhakhang, dating from the 7th century. The oldest section is located in the centre, with a circumabulation path around it. Chainmail made by Pema Lingpa, the Treasure Discoverer, can be viewed at the start of the path. You need to complete the kora three times for good luck.

Overnight in Jakar. Altitude: 2,580 metres.

Day 1 of trek.

We drive north of Jakar to reach the start of our trek at the army camp at Khaktang, where our horses and trekking crew will meet us. Our gear will be loaded on to the horses as we begin our trek through thick forest following the Chamkhar river. This is musk deer habitat but they are hard to spot. At times there are impressively steep cliffs lining the river.

Distance: 16 kms.

Camp altitude: 3,276 metres.

Day 2 of trek.

The trail continues through mixed bamboo forest before giving way to alpine forest. Look out for blood pheasants here. We will cross the stream numerous times as we follow the river. Several tributaries join the river and at the confluence of the Mela Chhu and the Bumthang Chhu the mountain Tsambar Brakhsam (4,330 metres) can be seen.

At Tsampa we will camp near the river where there is a small temple on a a nearby hill to visit.

Distance: 11½ kms.

Camp altitude: 3,675 metres.

Day 3 of trek.

We start to gain altitude on today's walk. Shortly after leaving Tsampa we will reach the first of several semi-nomadic yak herders camps, marked by simple stone huts. We will aslo come across some yak gates, which are usually closed to prevent yaks from passing up or down the trail. We may get our first glimpse of Gangkhar Puensum as we head up the valley.

Distance: 12 kms.

Camp altitude: 4,209 metres.

Day 4 of trek.

Today we have a short day of walking and we should reach Bamurpa by lunch time. The path is increasingly rocky as we continue up the valley. Our camp at Bamurpa is in a large flat area close to the river, both desolate and beautiful. There is the possibility of more hiking in the afternoon.

Distance: 8 kms.

Camp altitude: 4,490 metres.

Day 5 of trek.

From Bamurpa we trek to our highest campsite at Zhegephu. Not long after setting out we will be crossing the river at a low point where the water is low enough to wade through. The water is absolutely freezing as you would expect at this altitude. As we get closer to Gangkhar Puensum the scenery becomes quite spectacular: snow-capped mountains and glacial lakes, with cairns marked by prayer flags.

Distance: 11 kms.

Camp altitude: 4,994 metres.

Day 6 of trek.

This morning we will climb even higher along a ridge for stunning views of Gangkhar Puensum, set in a panoramic ampitheatre with a beautiful lake at its centre. This is Himalayan scenery at its most glorious. After soaking up the views we head back down to the main valley where will once again follow the river back to Shingo.

Distance: 13½ kms.

Camp altitude: 4,209 metres.

Day 7 of trek.

Today we continue our relatively easy descent back to our campsite at Tsampa. Once more we will find ourselves walking in the beautiful forest and have the luxury of sleeping at a lower altitude.

Distance: 10½ kms.

Camp altitude: 3,675 metres.

Day 8 of trek.

Today we take an alternative route after leaving Tsampa, heading west to a beautiful glacial lake called Tsho Shap, where we will camp for the night. It's a strenuous climb that takes us once more above the tree line. En route we may spot the blood pheasant or the superb Himalayan monal, if we are very lucky.

Distance: 8 kms.

Camp altitude: 4,420 metres.

Day 9 of trek.

Today we will cross the Thole La, a high pass at 4,730 metres in altitude. After making our way around the edge of Tsho Shap we will begin a 2-hour climb to the pass, where wonderful views await us if the weather is clear. From the pass we head steeply down to the valley and the Tashi Chhu, another fast flowing river that will lead us to another yak herders settlement and our campsite for the night.

Distance: 10 kms.

Camp altitude: 4,117 metres.

Day 10 of trek.

From Tashi Sa we turn off for the trail that leads to Dur village. We walk through the forest once more on what can be a muddy track, following the river and crossing several wooden cantilever bridges before emerging at a clearing known as Chokchum that has some great views and is tonight's campsite.

Distance: 13 kms.

Camp altitude: 3,247 metres.

Day 11 of trek.

The last day of trekking involves several ups and downs until we reach the river and the valley floor. We will start to see farmhouses as we approach the tiny village of Dur. Our vehicle will be waiting for us to take us to our hotel in Jakar but first we must say goodbye to our trekking crew and horsemen. A celebratory dinner will be in order tonight after hot showers.

Distance: 13 kms.

Overnight in Jakar. Altitude: 2,580 metres.

Today we will rest after our trek and enjoy some gentle walking and sightseeing around Bumthang. There is excellent food here and it is a good place for souvenir shopping. Today might be a good day to book a hot stone bath, a distinctly Bhutanese treat that is great for tired muscles, or get a massage.

Overnight in Jakar. Altitude: 2,580 metres.

This morning we will fly to Paro from the small airport in Jakar. The views of the mountains on the flight are pretty spectacular and we may spot Gangkhar Puensum. Close to Paro we may see Bhutan's second highest mountain, the snowy dome of Mount Jomolhari. 

This afternoon we can the Paro valley a bit more and do any last minute shopping.

Overnight in Paro. Altitude: 2,280 metres.

Warm up for the trek with the hike to the brilliant Tiger's Nest monastery, located 3,100 metres in altitude on a sheer cliff above the Paro Valley. This temple complex is set over a cave said to be where Guru Rinpoche, Padmasambhava, is said to have meditated after flying on the back of a tigress.

The dzong, or fortress, at Punakha is considered the most beautiful in Bhutan and it's easy to see why: traditional architecture, ornate carved and painted woodwork, brilliant Buddhist artwork and gilded doorways. There's also the stunning location, at the confluence of two rivers. It holds a special place in the hearts of the Bhutanese as it is the site for the coronation of all of the country's highly revered kings.

The dramatic location of Trongsa Dzong, on the edge of a steep gorge overlooking Mangde Chu river, makes it one of the most interesting fortresses in Bhutan. Originally built in the 16th century but added on to many times since, Trongsa Dzong is an intricate series of temples and courtyards at varying levels, with brilliant views of the gorge at the very end of the complex.

Soak up some of Bhutan's rich history with a wander around the temples of Bumthang. Jampey Lhakhang is one of two temples in Bhutan that date back to the 7th century. If you're feeling energetic there is the option of wearing chain mail, said to be made by Pema Lingpa, around the circumambulation path located inside.

The flight from Bumthang to Paro offers more spectacular views of the Himalayas, including Bhutan's two mighty giants, Gangkhar Puensum (7,570 metres) and Mount Jomolhari (7,314 metres).

One of Bhutan's best day hikes takes us to the superbly located Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten. The panoramic views of the Punakha Valley from the rooftop are sublime.